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Frankrijk
- Bourgogne
I am long overdue a visit to the best winemaker in Saint-Romain because I have adored Alain Gras’ Saint-Romain Blanc and Rouge for many years. That is basically all he produces but that’s enough - they are consistently brilliant. Since I could not get down to Saint-Romain on this trip, their UK importer sent me recent bottlings. Though Saint-Romain is synonymous with whites, I was floored by the transparency and purity of the 2019 red that put a huge smile on my face. The 2018 white was also nervy and complex. People often complain about Burgundy being too expensive, and they have a very valid point. But a wine that is not expensive or does not originate from a hallowed vineyard doesn’t preclude it from greatness.
(december 2020)
Alain Gras took the helm at this 12-hectare Saint-Romain domaine in 1979 and is today in the process of handing over the reins to his son Arthur. Pretty and precise, these keenly priced whites and reds are alike framed by a delicate touch of new oak from Gras's neighbor, François Frères. Alain Gras deserves much of the credit for Saint-Romain's contemporary visibility and reputation, and it will be interesting to see what the next generation will bring to the equation. The 2019 vintage has turned out very well at this address, and the wines reviewed here come recommended.
(juli 2021)
